It has a spotless beach, charming independent shops, and some of the best chips you’ll ever taste – and it’s just 15 minutes from a major city
It’s the perfect place for a sunny day out(Image: Nicola Roy)
You truly can’t beat a trip to the beach when the weather allows for it. Scotland is home to some pretty special seaside towns, each with their own unique appeal, and you’re never really too far away from a picturesque spot.
There’s one in particular that deserves a place on your list, if you haven’t already been. Portobello is only 15 minutes away from the bustling city of Edinburgh, but it couldn’t be any more different.
With a bustling high street brimming with independent shops, superb food and drink, and excellent transport links, it’s genuinely perfect if you fancy straying slightly beyond the usual tourist hotspots.
The bus ride from the city centre took just 15 minutes, dropping us right in the heart of the town, and it was immediately clear that this place had something special about it.
Our first move was heading to the waterfront to enjoy a leisurely wander along the coast. Conditions were beautifully sunny and crisp, and it was so refreshing after the hour-long train journey from Glasgow.
Portobello’s coastline extends for two miles, featuring a Victorian-era promenade and sweeping views across the Firth of Forth. As it was a glorious Sunday morning, the seafront was fairly lively, with plenty of families out for a stroll and dogs charging about on the sand.
The first thing that caught my attention about the beach was just how spotless it was. It’s clear that the residents of Portobello, affectionately known as ‘Porty’, take enormous pride in keeping their surroundings immaculate.
In 2024, Portobello was crowned the second-best coastal town in the UK by JoJo Maman Bebe, while its beach has also bagged a Keep Scotland Beautiful award.
After a relaxed wander along the beach and building up quite the appetite, we thought it was time to find something to eat. The seafront at Portobello beach boasts an impressive selection of dining spots, from giant pizza slices at Civerino’s to brunch and coffee at The Beach House.
Plenty of these provide outdoor seating, meaning you can enjoy your meal practically on the sand itself, and it was delightful to see so many folk doing precisely that. We decided to try Shrimp Wreck, a seafood spot with a small but tempting menu. This street food stall appeared on BBC’s My Million Pound Menu and has earned acclaim for its fish finger sandwiches – even reaching the finals of the Birds Eye Fish Finger Sandwich Awards in 2017.
That’s exactly what I went for, and it’s easy to understand its popularity. Crispy battered fish fillets, mushy peas and the most incredible chips I’ve tasted, all nestled inside a soft roll, was possibly the most gloriously messy meal I could have picked – but I’d do it all over again.
Afterwards, we set about properly exploring the high street where the bus had dropped us off. Tucked just behind the promenade, it wasn’t quite as busy as the beach, but there were still plenty of folk wandering around – and crucially, a decent number of shops open.
A real highlight for me was The Portobello Bookshop, a charming independent bookshop packed with novels, cookbooks and loads more besides. The space felt bright, warm and welcoming, the kind of place where hours could slip by unnoticed as you browse.
They also run events, including author Q&As, so it’s well worth checking their programme before you visit.
Cove is another essential stop for anyone who loves a good gift shop. It was crammed with every trinket you could imagine, from Jellycat toys to candles and shampoo bars, alongside gorgeous cards and mouthwatering chocolate bars.
Portobello’s high street may not be the longest, but it’s undoubtedly one of the best you’ll come across. With a solid selection of food and drink outlets, a handful of pubs and even an Aldi, you’ll be spoilt for choice throughout your visit.
One gem we didn’t get the chance to explore, but are already keen to head back for, is the local swim centre. Nestled in Portobello, you’ll find a real Victorian Turkish bath — one of only 11 remaining in the UK — alongside a gym and fitness studio, making it a firm fixture on our list for the next visit.
If Portobello has never been on your radar, it truly is the perfect spot for a weekend break — even when it’s not sunny. Its close proximity to the bustling city of Edinburgh makes it an ideal retreat for those looking to swap the city rush for a leisurely stretch of dining, drinking and relaxing by the seaside.
